DUBLIN MAY 2006
Kathy and I visited Dublin, Ireland from May 21-24 to visit as many of the sites of Ulysses and The Dubliners as we could. The weather was pretty bad, rainy and windy, but we struggled on. The Joyce pictures here supplement those that my son-in-law Tim Clements and I took on our trip to Dublin to celebrate the 100th anniversary of Bloomsday, June 16, 2004.
Our hotel was a five-minute walk from Newbridge Ave. where Paddy Dignam lived in No. 7. It was Paddy's funeral that Leopold Bloom attended in Chapter 6 ("Hades") of Ulysses. The house:
Right around the corner is the Star of the Sea Church which figures in Chapter 13 ("Nausicaa"); also, in Chapter 3 ("Proteus") Stephen Dedalus walked past the church down Leahy Terrace to reach the beach (Sandymount Strand):
From the beach, Stephen could see the power plant known as the "Pigeonhouse."
We took the DART (Dublin Area Rapid Transit, but in 1904 a steam-driven train) from Landsdowne Ave., near our hotel, to Sandymount Cove, near the Martello Tower where Stephen is living and where Chapter 1 ("Telemachus") takes place.
The tower overlooks forty-foot cove where Mulligan and Haines go swimming:
In the background, across the bay, you can see Howth Hill where Leopold proposed to Molly and where they had sex for the first time. Molly accepted Bloom's offer of marriage with the famous words that end Ulysses: "...and yes I said yes I will Yes."
Inside the tower is a ceramic black panther, commemorating Haines' nightmare of being pursued by such an animal:
Also, there is a picture of Throwaway, the 20-1 longshot that won the Ascot Gold Cup on Bloomsday. When Bloom told a friend that he could have his newspaper because he was going to "throw it away" (Chapter 5, "The Lotus-Eaters") his friend thought that Bloom was giving him a tip on the race. This was to come back to haunt Bloom in Chapter 12 ("Cyclops").
Here I am on top of the tower. As you can see, the rain has stopped (temporarily) but note how I'm bundled up against the wind and cold:
Near the tower is a park with a commemorative plaque (the quotation is from Chapter 1):
From the tower Kathy and I hiked to Dalkey where Chapter 2 ("Nestor") takes place, but we didn't find the school where Stephen taught (it's no longer there).
Before continuing with our Ulysses saga, let me talk about "The Dead", the last story in Joyce's The Dubliners It was made into a wonderful movie, directed by John Huston and starring his daughter Angelica. The story begins at a Twelfeth-Night dinner, hosted by the sisters Miss Kate and Miss Julia at their home, 15 Usher's Island. Here is the house; first Kathy posing by the door (don't ask me why there's a soldier's uniform there) and then a view of the house from across the street. It is just on the south bank of the Liffey:
We then walked to the Gresham Hotel where the Conroys, Gabriel and Gretta, spent the night, and where we had a splendid lunch. (The Conroys didn't want to travel late at night all the way home to Monkstown, a stop on the DART about halfway bewteen Landsdowne Ave. and Sandymount Cove.)
The hotel is on O'Connell Street, on the north side of the Liffey, so we had to cross the O'Connell Bridge where, according to the story one always sees a white horse (we didn't):
En route to the hotel, still on the south bank, we passed Fishamble St. site of the (no longer extant) Neals Musick Hall where the first performance of Handel's Messiah was given in 1742. There is now a hotel on on or near the site of the performance:
This hotel is near the part of Dublin known as Temple Bar which figures prominently into both Ulysses (especially Chapater 10, "The Wandering Rocks") and The Dubliners. Here is Farrington's Bar, which figures in the story "Counterparts." Farrington, the protagonist, ducked out of his office for a quick drink at O'Neill's bar (later was renamed in his honor).
Across the Liffey is the Ormond Hotel, scene of Chapter 11 ("The Sirens") unfortunately closed now for renovation. (You should just be able to read the words "Siren's Lounge" on the side of the building, behind the truck).
Further along we pass Merchant's Arch where Leopold bought a dirty book for Molly ("Wandering Rocks"):
Continuing our walk to the Gresham Hotel, after crossing the bridge we passed Middle Abbey St., the site of the newpaper offices in Chapter 7 ("Aeolus"). There are still newspaper offices there, but they have surely been rebuilt:
The Gresham Hotel is near Parnell St., and the statue of Charles Stewart Parnell. His ostracism by the Roman Catholic Church after he had been named in a divorce suit no doubt set back the cause of Irish independence by 30 years.
Not too far away is the school in which Joyce studied as a teenager, and which figures prominently in A Portrait of the Artist as a Young Man:
It is just around the corner from Eccles Street, where the Blooms loived at No. 7. That house has been torn down to make way for a wing of the Mater Misericordiae Hospital (noted by Bloom as he passed it in the funeral cortege in Chapter 6). Across the street is a similar house, however, which styles itself the Bloom house:
Around another corner is St. Francis Xavier's Church. It was from the presbytery of this church that Fr. Conmee emerges in the first episode of "Wandering Rocks":
We lunched at Davy Byrnes' Pub, on the same lunch that Bloom had that day: a gorgonzola cheese sandwich and a glass of burgundy (Chapter 8, "The Lestrygonians"). Bloom encounters Nosey Flynn in the pub, a character who also appears in "Counterparts":
Not far away, aftre lunch, Bloom helped a blind piano-tuner cross the street (he was later to appear in the Sirens episode, looking for his tuning fork). A commemorative plaque is in the sidewalk:
Not far away is the library, scene of Chapter 9 ("Scyllas and Charybdis"):
And around the corner is the site of the building which once was Finn's Hotel, where Nora Barnacle, Joyce's wife-to-be, was workng as a chambermaid when they met. The faded sign is still visible on the side of the building:
Not too far away is the house in which Oscar Wilde lived and, across the street in Merion Square, his statue:
This location also figures in "The Wandering Rocks" as Stephen Dedalus and the music teacher Almidano Artifioni pass this way as Artifioni is attempting, unsuccessfully, to persuade Stephen to take up singing professionally.